White Island, New Zealand
February, 2002
The crater lake at White Island
Photo credit: vtveen
White Island in New Zealand was the first active volcano I ever set foot on. It took a few days though. The first day we managed to get all the way out to the Island, which lies about 50km from the coast in the Bay of Plenty, but due to the 3m swells it was impossible to land and we had to turn around and head back to shore. It was not a good day for the seasick, I can tell you that. A pod of dolphins appeared on the trip back as though commiserating our unsuccessful visit. The next day the swell was even bigger and we received a 6am call telling us not to bother showing up.
White Island was the place I really wanted to visit on our trip. For as long as I can remember I have been completely enthralled by volcanoes. I dream about volcanic eruptions all the time and they are not nightmares. Although I always get too close and end up trapped Frodo and Sam style and there is never a giant eagle to save me.
The Pacific plate is being subducted beneath the Australian plate at a rate of around 40 mm per year. It is this massive collison that forms the volcanism of the North Island, sourced by the Pacific plate melting deep beneath the surface. White island is only the tip of a larger submarine volcano hidden beneath the choppy water. It hasn’t had a significant eruption since 2000 when an ash fall blanketed the island, but it is still very much active evidenced by the steaming fumeroles dotting the island.
In Maori the name is Te Puia o Whakaari. This translates as the Dramatic Volcano. It was less imaginatively named White Island by Captain Cook when he saw the white steam the pouring from the crater. The Dramatic Volcano seems more appropriate since the island has had its fair share of drama in the past. Sulphur mining took place there in the late 19th and early 20th century until a massive lahar (volcanic mudflow) consumed the entire mining camp leaving only the camp cat as a survivor.
Remains of the mining camp
Photo credit: aelena
On the third day we made it. My seasick legs trembled onto dry land, safety helmet firmly on my head, gas mask prepared around my neck. I was nervous in a way I seldom have been in volcanic areas since then (though taking my parents up Mt Yasur in Vanuatu was a bit different… the idea I might get them killed through my volcano obsession was a little more stressful). But really, in terms of volcanoes White Island is fairly tame. Just don’t stray to close to the fumeroles or stand to close to the crater and all will be fine. The fumeroles are all over the place, steaming furiously, encrusted with bright yellow crystals of sulphur. And the crater lake, that fascinating shade of acidic green with steam pouring from it. You can see where Cook got the White Island from.
It wasn’t just the volcano itself that was interesting, but also the stark ruins of the mining camp, rusting away in the acidic atmosphere. Hulking wheels partially buried among crumbling walls while the volcano coughs up steam in the background. It must have been such a frightening place to work. And in the end deadly.
My very first active volcano
We took our trip to White Island with White Island tours on the lovely yacht the PeeJay. They don’t require payment until you board the ship since whether you can land on the island is very weather dependent (plan some contingency days!). If you take the trip out to White Island but can’t land there they will give you a full refund. For us that meant a free dolphin watching trip!
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